Bucket List · Bucket list route
John Muir Trail
Two hundred and eleven miles from Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mount Whitney, over eight passes above 11,000 feet, through the highest and most beautiful country in the Sierra Nevada. Getting the permit is harder than most of the walking.
- Distance
- 211 mi
- Climbing
- ~47,000 ft
- High point
- Mount Whitney, 14,505 ft
- Donohue quota
- 45 people per day
- Fastpack time
- 5 to 10 days
- FKT range
- Around 3 days
The JMT runs south from Happy Isles in Yosemite through Tuolumne, over Donohue Pass into the Ansel Adams Wilderness, past Thousand Island Lake, through Kings Canyon and Sequoia, over Muir, Mather, Pinchot, Glen, Forester, and finally up Whitney. It's a continuous line through alpine country with almost no road crossings, which is why it's both magnificent and a logistical puzzle.
Runners approach it three ways: a fastpacking trip of five to ten days with resupply, a supported push with crew meeting at the few access points, or an unsupported FKT attempt in the region of three days, which is one of the most respected efforts in American trail running.
How to get in
- LotteryThe Yosemite southbound permit
The classic Happy Isles start requires a Yosemite wilderness permit with a Donohue Pass exit quota of just 45 people per day. Applications go in roughly 24 weeks ahead on a rolling lottery. Peak season success rates run around 30 percent for Yosemite starts, and roughly 70 percent of mid-July-to-mid-August applicants fail to get a reservation.
- PermitAlternate trailheads
This is the actual answer for most people. Starting from Tuolumne Meadows, or entering the trail from the east side at Mammoth, Onion Valley, or Bishop Pass, has dramatically better permit odds and only costs you a small piece of trail. Shoulder-season starts in September have run 60 to 80 percent success.
- Self-supportedNorthbound from Whitney
Running north from Whitney Portal requires a Whitney Zone permit instead of the Donohue quota, which some years is the easier draw. It also means finishing in Yosemite Valley, which is a lovely way to end.
Fastpack, supported, or FKT
- Fastpacking, 5 to 10 days. A light pack, a bear canister (required and non-negotiable), and one or two resupplies at Reds Meadow, Vermilion Valley Resort, or Muir Trail Ranch. The most common approach.
- Supported push. Crew access points are limited to a handful of places, so this still means carrying a lot between them.
- Unsupported FKT. Around three days, carrying everything, no outside aid. One of the purest efforts in the sport.
- Bear canisters are legally required for most of the route and they are heavy and bulky. Plan your food around the canister volume, not the other way around.
- Snow timing. Big snow years keep passes technical into July. Check the Sierra snowpack before committing to a July start.
Questions runners actually ask
What are the John Muir Trail permit odds?
For a Yosemite southbound start in peak season, roughly 30 percent, driven by the Donohue Pass exit quota of 45 people per day. September and alternate trailheads run far better, in the 60 to 80 percent range.
Can I skip the Yosemite permit?
Yes. Starting at Tuolumne Meadows or entering from an eastern trailhead such as Onion Valley or Bishop Pass avoids the Donohue quota entirely, and northbound from Whitney uses a different permit system.
How fast can it be done?
Fastpackers take five to ten days. Unsupported fastest known times are in the region of three days, which is among the most respected efforts in American trail running.
Go to the source
Entry rules, dates, standards, fees, and odds change every single year, and the interesting races change them the most. Use this guide to build the plan; use the official site to confirm the details before you book anything.
If this is your kind of thing
Need the races in between? The hard part of a bucket list year is everything else on the calendar: the qualifier, the tune-up, the long run with a bib on.